
	You might well begin by asking “where in the world is Suriname?” And “what is moksi meti anyway?” Or “why would you want to go there?” All very good questions, the first of which can be answered by the map, which shows Suriname’s location on the north end of S. America. I know, I know, it sounds like it should be in Africa or Asia, right? Well, it might just as well be, in many respects, as it is a country unlike any other in South America.
	Dutch is the primary language in Suriname	Suriname is a bit like one of its own favorite dishes, moksi meti, which is a mixture of “at least 4 meats” with rice and delicious spices. Similarly, the country is truly an amalgam of ethnic groups from Indonesia, China, India, Africa and the Caribbean, with some Creole thrown in and a strong Dutch overtone to all! In fact, no-one speaks Spanish or even Portuguese. Dutch is the primary language, a carry-over from 300 years of Dutch Colonial rule (1667-1975), and while our local guide and a few others spoke English, it was, for the most part, never heard.
	As to why one might want to go to Suriname, in addition to its fascinating cultural mix, there are some very special birds which live in the 80% of the country which is covered in untouched rainforest. Here are just a couple to help you understand why I went:	Crimson-hooded Manakin* Gray-winged Trumpeters*
	Atlanta's Hartsfield, busiest airport in the world Paramaribo Airport, NOT the busiest in the world!	Getting to Suriname should be a lot easier than it is, given its location. I flew from Atlanta to Miami, then via Caribbean Air to Port-of-Spain in Trinidad and Tobago, and then to Paramaribo, the capitol of Suriname and the location of the only international airport. Everything was fine until Port-of-Spain, at which point Caribbean Air’s “schedule” turned out to be quite different than advertised! We finally arrived in Suriname, after an unexpected stop in Georgetown, Guyana, at 5:30 AM, 5 hours behind “schedule!”
	As you can see, there is a considerable difference in the air traffic at either end! There is, however, a direct flight on KLM from Amsterdam to Paramaribo, and thus we did encounter a number of Dutch tour groups, usually younger people who obviously came to sample the tropical climate and experience the rainforest. I observed no other Americans, even in the Marriott, which is very modern, comfortable and staffed with English-speaking Surinamese. We returned here every 4th night, which provided a welcome break from the heat and humidity and a few other things as well.	All mod cons and comforts at the Paramaribo Marriott
	Chinese Store Islamic Storefront	In a nation of about 500,000, of whom 450,000 live in and around the capitol, one can reach some good birding spots in a relatively short time. Thus we explored areas in and around Paramaribo for the first day or two, and in the process, passed through the city each day. Here it is easy to find a clear demonstration of the diverse groups, as each storefront seems to be owned by a specific ethnic group.
	In addition, there are religious manifestations which provide similar illustrations.	Lutheran Church Mosque Hindu Temple Hindu Shrine (taken from the bus window) Episcopal Cathedral, under repairs
	Colonial buildings in the older part of town Statue of the "Big Fat Guy" New business in old buildings	Then too, there are the Dutch Colonial era buildings in the heart of the old town, which add a familiar and charming note to the city-scape and sometimes blend the old and the new.
	“The Big Fat Guy”, as everyone refers to the statue, is Johan Adolf Pengel, Prime minister from 1963 to 1969, after whom the international airport is named. The people are largely dark in complexion, with the exception of the Amer-Indians, who are much lighter, shorter and quite stocky. There is a group of people of African descent, the Maroons, who were originally brought over as slaves for the sugar plantations. They eventually escaped and fled to the interior of the country where they still live and keep very much to themselves.	AmerIndian children* Selling snacks by the road
	Bridge across the Suriname River in Paramaribo Rufous Crab-Hawk Bufo Marinus Blood-colored Woodpecker* Butterfly*	Here are a few of the birds and critters we saw on our Paramaribo area explorations.
	The interior of the country is generally accessible only by river or charter flight. The river journeys are long and the boats aren’t geared to tourism, so we flew from the domestic airport, right in the city, to our first destination, Raleigh Falls.	Map of my trip by Field Guides, Inc.* Map showing elevations
	We had to hope it was strong gum! General chaos as the domestic airport Our Twin Otter charter plane loading supplies Take-off from Paramaribo on a rainy afternoon Endless rainforest views, about to land at our camp at Raleigh Falls The welcome committee? We sure were hoping they would remember to come back…	Though we departed in rain, our landing on the grass strip above the river was smooth and in hazy sunshine. I love these landings, which swoop down over the vast rainforest and suddenly speed along a wall of green before touching down for a short run. The welcome committee was not out in force, but we were clearly in the wilderness, so, I thought, let the adventure begin!
	Our accommodations were simple and right on the river. Our meals would be prepared by our own cook, Gracia, an ample and jolly woman who managed amazing feats with just one propane burner and multiple ice chests which, fortunately, also included some beer. She flew in with us and our supplies for this stop as well as our final one, at Brownsberg. Also with us throughout our trip was our local guide and fixer, Chris, who spoke fluent English, Dutch and Sranan Tongo, a creole language spoken by most Surinamese.	Our rooms were in this riverside building My room, simple but adequate, open-air and complete with bats View of the Coppername River from my room Our local guide, Kris, and cook, Gracia
	Leaf-cutter ants sweep their own path in the forest Each ant carries a load far larger than itself Leaf-cutter anthills can be many times larger than this	Our camp, run (though not very well) by STINASU, a local conservation, quasi-governmental organization, was actually on Foengoe Island, in the Coppername River. We hiked the trail on the island and found some good birds as well as very active colonies of leaf-cutter ants, whose travails can be quite fascinating. These little guys carry loads back to their underground homes which are far larger than themselves. The do not actually eat the pieces of the leaves and blossoms they cut, but rather farm them to grow a fungus upon which the colony dines.
	Here are two short videos which will give you a better idea of these amazing insects. Be sure to view in 720p HD and click the full screen icon on the lower right for best viewing. Other birds and critters seen on our hike and from the grass airstrip are pictured here. The airstrip proved to be an excellent birding spot, as the long clearing provides excellent visibility into the surrounding treetops.	Ameriva Lizard I may look cool, but I'm not! The tree is really cool, however Scaled Pigeons Squirrel Cuckoo Violaceous Trogon Caica Parrot
	The (leaky) boat took us upriver to the trailhead Swallow-wing Puffbirds along the river Yellow-billed Jacamar Clusia fruit on the forest floor	The next morning we set out by boat for our overnight in the depths of the rainforest. Because of all the rain, the river was high, but a 10 minute ride safely deposited us at the trailhead for our 6 mile hike into the Voltzberg Research Station. Two of the local STINASU staff hiked in ahead of us, clearing the trail a bit with machetes and portering our hammocks and supplies for the night. I carried only what I needed for lunch along the trail, for that night and plenty of water, as the heat and humidity would prove to be draining. Dave Stejskal, our Field Guides leader, wisely passed out packets of rehydration salts to help us keep going along the way. The trail was an easy one compared to many I’ve hiked, and one special bird seen along the way was the Band-tailed Antshrike. Though it seems to be not often seen ( I was not even able to find a photo on the internet), it has a fairly wide range including Suriname, French Guyana and extreme NE Brazil. There was much to look at along the way through beautiful, untouched and endless forest.
	We arrived at the research station at about 2 PM, and found that it had not been occupied for some time, at least not by humans. The bats, however, were a different matter! The local men had done their best to sweep out the guano covering the floors, but the odor remained and I was not happy to discover that they had failed to bring our mosquito netting, as expected. Nonetheless, our hammocks were strung and having had an hours sit-down on the porch, we set out for the Guianan Cock-of-the-Rock lek, about another half mile along a more challenging trail. After crossing 3 or 4 streams we were suddenly caught in a tropical deluge. Having set out in bright sunshine with not a hint of rain, I stupidly left my umbrella behind, and though I sheltered under the umbrella of another in our group (thank you, Harlan!), I was still drenched. By the time the rains let up, the water had risen dramatically all around us, and we decided that it was unlikely that we could get back to camp right away so we continued on. We did see the splendid males at last, and then turned back along the trail to camp. Stream crossings were now major undertakings, one involving a single log about 15' above the swollen waters, but with patience and lots of help from all, everyone made it.	The condition of the sign says much about the building! Guianan Cock-of-the-Rock male My hammock
	Breakfast at the Research Station Unusual terrestrial orchid on the plate below the Voltzberg Blackish Nightjars on their day roost on the plate And this is why I didn't climb the Voltzberg! Heading back from our hike - camp sure looked good!	After eating supper, a delicious moksi meti prepared by Gracia (yes, she hiked all the way in too!), I climbed into my hammock, quite exhausted! Alas, it was not to be a great night’s sleep, as the bats were continuing to make deposits, some of which landed on my chest early on, and which pretty much kept me awake the rest of the night. I don’t mind bats, actually, but I do mind their droppings. I had wanted to awaken in the midst of the rainforest on my 66th birthday, and I did indeed do that, though perhaps not quite as envisioned! After a quick breakfast the next morning, we began our hike back out to the river. Stopping on the gently domed rock plate near camp on the way out, we explored some of the unusual vegetation and watched these Blackish Nightjars which had settled in for a quiet day. The Voltzberg Domes towered above us in the mist. I had not a moment’s regret at not being able to climb them, as the rain had made even the slightest incline slick with wet algae.
	Back at the Raleigh Falls camp that evening, I celebrated my birthday along with another member of our group, John, who turned 79 that day. Gracia somehow managed a cake and candles, and some rum appeared for a change from beer, so, at the end of the day, after a cold shower (which sure felt great!), I once again sank into my bed exhausted, and a year older, but this time with mosquito net	Coming in to land at Palumeu, Cessna Caravan
	The Arrivals Lounge at Palumeu My room was the right side of this duplex cabin Clean, riverside, private bath & shower, bats too View of the Upper Tapanahony River from my room	To get more of an idea of what it’s like to land on a grass strip in the jungle, go to my YouTube site for a 40 second video. As before, for best effect, view in HD and full screen. After a refreshing night back at the Marriott (it was heavenly!), we flew down to our most southerly point in Suriname, Palumeu Lodge. Run by a different company, METS, this lodge really was more like jungle lodges in other countries, with well maintained cabins, sheets & towels, a diningroom and bar, and excellent local staff. Though there were still bats in the room and a cold shower, and the staff spoke only their own Amer-Indian language, we were definitely more comfortable and well cared-for.
	The simple life being lived by the tribe in their village next door to the lodge was evident as we traveled and birded from our boat on the Tapanahony River. Dugout canoes are the mode of transport, subsistence crops are raised in slash-and-burn plots, and the river provides water, fish and bathing as well.	The AmerIndian village next door to the lodge A native dugout on the river
	Searching for the Crimson Fruitcrow atop Poti Hill Mt. Roosevelt in the distance Pied Puffbird Descending Poti Hill, careful of the slippery algae	Our hikes over the next two days took us 2 ½ miles each way through the jungle on the other side of the river, to climb a small dome called Poti Hill. Here we searched (and searched!) for the Crimson Fruitcrow, but, alas, to no avail. However, we did have marvelous views over the unbroken forest, and saw some great birds as well.
	As we hiked through the jungle I noticed some splendid fungi, interesting seeds, and even a Giant Bird-eating Spider!	Fungi #1 Fungi #2 Fungi #3 This seed looks like a sick fried egg, but it's a very efficient wind dispersal method Bird-eating spider (tarantula), blends in well A specimen shot, just so that you get the full effect!*
	Collared Trogon (male) Leaf-mimic frog (green is not his usual background) This unknown, colorful fruit was everywhere on the forest floor Returning to Palumeu in the afternoon sun	Other shots from Palumeu:
	En route back to Paramaribo, our flight took us over the huge Brokopondo Reservoir, originally built in the early 1960's to provide power for refining bauxite. At 602 square miles, it is one of the world’s largest reservoirs. We also saw evidence of the mining industry which is so important to Suriname’s economy.	Brokopondo Reservoir Bauxite and Gold mining are essential to the economy Approaching Paramaribo
	Group shot as we arrived at Brownsberg	Another night with all mod cons (that A/C sure felt good), and armed with clean clothes, we left the next day by road to get to Brownsberg Nature Reserve, our final birding destination. After birding in savannah areas near the airport, we drove on south along a newly paved road. The Chinese had done the paving, in exchange for concessions of some sort, no doubt forestry extraction at least. However, the final run up to the Brownsberg Plateau was on one very tricky, sharply winding, slippery clay/mud road. I closed my eyes more than a few times, but our driver handled it all brilliantly!
	Our accommodations were once again rather simple, not especially well maintained (STINASU again), with shared rooms and toilet/shower facilities (cold water, tended to flood!), but Gracia was back to cook for us and our home here had the best view on the plateau! At 1600', it was also just a tiny bit cooler here, which was most welcome. And there weren’t any bats in my room!	Our livingroom, not much used as we ate outside whenever possible My messy half of the ladies' bedroom Gracia works in the kitchen at Brownsberg Sunrise over Brokopondo, the view from our front patio
	Gray-winged Trumpeters preening in the sun Black Currasows way down the track White Hawk with a prize catch - quite a big snake!	We birded right from the lodge, for the most part, which is always a plus as we could sleep a bit later, not having to drive any distance to reach the forest. There was a flock of 5 Gray-winged Trumpeters and Black Currasows to be seen along the dirt track, and wonderful birds to be seen right from our overlook.
	Best of all, for me at least, was the surprise I shared with Tom Mulcahy and a few others one day after lunch. He and I had decided to scan the overlook from conveniently placed benches instead of siesta-ing during our post-lunch break, and our reward was the thrill of finally seeing the Crimson Fruitcrow! In fact, it popped up in a bare tree and we were able to get it in the scope, though only long enough for 4 of our group to see it. Since this species has never been seen at Brownsberg before, it’s a shame that it didn’t stay long enough for me to document it with a photo, but the mental image will always remain.	Crimson Fruitcrow*
	Ferruginous-backed Antbird*	Though not a new species for me, this Ferruginous-backed Antbird put on an unforgettable show for us one day.
	The Wing-banded Antbird had eluded me on several other trips, so I was especially delighted to catch up with it here, at last. It too gave us excellent views, as it quietly fed and occasionally called in the shadows on the forest floor.	Wing-banded Antbird*
	Beetle Arrow Poison Frog	Other beauties seen include this glowing beetle, and the tiny “Arrow Poison” frog.
	The large, magnolia-like Clusia tree right outside our building was both blooming and fruiting, producing lovely flowers and a very complex fruit, which was enjoyed by at least 2 species of Honeycreepers.	Clusia Flower Clusia Fruit (before opening on the right)
	Sunset in Suriname	Our trip ended with a final night in Paramaribo, though we had to leave for the airport, which is 50 km south, at the most unhappy hour of 3AM. Fortunately, all connections went smoothly on the way back to Atlanta, and though it took all day to get there, I had ample time to reflect on my Surinamese experiences. It was a demanding trip in many ways, but produced 23 life birds and gave me the chance to see not only a truly unique country, but to experience that rare commodity, unbroken rainforest wilderness. Our leader, Dave Stejskal, did a fine job and managed to smile even in the face of floods and a drowned iPod (thank goodness for back-ups!). All in all, it was a moksi meti sort of adventure!
	NOTE: All photos are mine unless otherwise indicated by an asterisk*